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                  洗湯去

                  推薦人:天天 來源: 愛散文 時間: 2018-02-24 00:41 閱讀:

                    洗湯去

                    文/淡水泉

                    有人說,在福州地上隨便砸個坑,都能冒出溫泉水。沒有溫泉的生活,就不算是福州人的生活。因福州人習慣把溫泉熱水俗稱作湯。洗澡故名洗湯。

                    著名作家郁達夫三十年代在福州就任省公報室主任時,洗湯是他在榕生活的一大內容,他的《閩游滴瀝》一書,就繪情繪色地描繪了,在福州泡澡堂的感受。除了洗湯,澡堂也是他飲酒會友場所,一次他在福龍泉澡堂洗浴,詩興大發,向帳房要了筆墨,揮筆寫下了“為因醉酒鞭名馬,但恐多情累美人”的佳句。不僅如此,他甚至還發現了福州溫泉里的小秘密,“福州女子的另一特點,是在她們皮膚的細白。生長在深閨中的宦家小姐,不見天日,白膩原也應該;最奇怪的,卻是那些住在城外的工農傭婦,也一例地有著那種嫩白微紅,像剛施過脂粉似的皮膚。大約日夕灌溉的溫泉浴是一種關系”——《飲食男女在福州》。郁達夫的風流灑脫,由此可見一斑。

                    我一直記得,小時候在福州溫泉路附近小巷里一家叫新榕的澡堂,那小巷兩邊都是歪斜的柴埕厝。傍晚經過那里,可以看到三五成群的婦女圍在一個個低洼的小水坑,一邊聊著家常,一邊搓著衣服,坑底有熱水不斷的滲出,是溫泉。

                    那地方一千多年前就叫金湯。

                    福州的古城像一只葫蘆,北邊從屏山開始,屏山下,一邊是西湖,一邊是東湖,將葫蘆頭壓得小小的,越往南,越大,到了烏山和于山,將兩塔包裹了進來,那是最寬的葫蘆底,而金湯就在葫蘆的肩膀上。

                    據《東門史話》載:太康二年(公元281年)晉安太守嚴高建子城,在東門處開鑿人工運河,民工發現了涌出地面的湯水,用石圍筑成湯池,供作沐浴。而且,為了泡湯的方便,民工們還私下鑿了十個石槽,這些石槽都是露天的,下面的熱水應該是不斷的冒出來,樂的民工們天天泡,我想,即使建城結束,他們還在泡著,而且泡出癮來了。這事被當官的知道了,也覺得是一件樂事,便將石槽圍了起來,只供當官的使用。這湯,也成了官湯。南宋名臣李綱貶居福州時泡過,還發出了“玉池金屋浴蘭芳,千古華清第一池;何似此泉澆病叟,不妨更入荔枝鄉”的美嘆。

                    那些不泡不行了的上癮民工,郁悶之余,又在福州城的后井一帶打了一眼湯井,將湯口用青石砌成八角型,史稱八角井。那快樂便又從八角井里汩汩而出,好在那時候福州當官的或是公務員的人數不是很多,這八角井便沒有收歸官有了。

                    見過一個老人畫的溫泉地圖,標明了福州城六十三個可以洗湯的地方,那老人還很遺憾的說,自己這一生只泡了二十三個還是二十六個溫泉。由此看來,福州人的閑適、內斂、小富即安的市民性,都是泡湯泡出來的。于是,我也開始想自己泡了多少個澡堂呢?南星,高橋,溫泉,大眾,新榕,古三座,華清樓,小滄浪,好像就這么多,出了福州城的不算。

                    兒時常去的一個澡堂叫小滄浪的,小時不知道是什么意思,后來讀了一些書,知道了有這么一句,也挺喜歡的:滄浪之水清兮,可以濯我纓。滄浪之水濁兮,可以濯我足。簡單的說,就是干凈的水可以洗頭,不干凈的水可以洗腳。其實,就現在來看,洗腳也要干凈的水的,因為還有很多類似香港腳一樣的病菌的。但那時候小滄浪應該就是這樣的想法的,可以濯我纓的。它就開在我家附近的福新路上,那時候還是一條鋪著柏油的小馬路。隔壁很像還有一個喝茶納涼的棚子,也擺滿了竹子做的躺椅,到了夏天的晚上,還可以隱約聽到那伴著鑼點的評話聲。

                    那時的澡堂,都有一個高高的柜臺,后面總是坐著一個老人,那是賣票的,買了票,他會給你一塊用蠟紙包的小肥皂,還有一包毛邊紙包的茉莉花茶。

                    到了澡堂里面,到處是光屁股的浴客。你得透過氤氳的湯氣去尋到一個空位子,那些位都是竹制的躺椅,上面鋪著條薄薄的浴巾,印著澡堂的名字。

                    幾乎所有的澡堂都有三四口不同溫度的池子,池子間有孔道相通用來調溫。最大的一口池子通常是大眾池,一般是初涉“湯池店”的人待的地方,而老湯客或嫌其溫度低,或嫌湯水濁,很少在里面泡。他們大都是搭條毛巾,腳拖著木屐,先到第二口池子里“預熱”一下身體,然后會啜著嘴,緊夾著雙腿,仿佛很羞澀的樣子,慢慢的挪到第三口燙池子里,然后一動不動,這時,周圍的人便鴉雀無聲了,緊盯著池子里的人。差不多一兩分鐘,那人便會從池子里跳了起來,全身酥軟地癱到池邊的石條上,大口呼著氣,渾身通紅,就像剝了一層皮似地,所有的血管都充著血。至于第四口池子,稱為湯頭,溫度高到燙皮退毛,即使骨灰級湯客也只能望池興嘆。

                    好歟?周圍的人會問。(好歟,是福州話怎么樣的意思)

                    透喀!那泡上來的人會這么回答。(透喀,福州話是指很徹底的舒服)

                    那些先前已經泡“透喀”的人們便裸著身子,躺在竹躺椅上,一邊喝著搪瓷蓋杯里的茉莉花茶,一邊嘴里還不閑著,與三五湯友聊著身邊的新聞、時事,或是干脆幾張椅子一拼擺起一桌“龍門陣”,這是老福州人最愜意的事。除了可以洗澡、泡湯外,澡堂還有許多服務項目,比如釆耳,擦背,修腳等。如果肚子餓了,還可以讓澡堂伙計叫外面小吃店送些炒粉,煮粉干等點心進來。

                    我那個時候,喜歡跟著外公去洗湯,主要不是為了洗,而是為了吃。外公的手心很重,每回總是將我身上搓得通紅通紅的,痛。于是外公一邊搓,我就一邊縮,縮得差不多的時候,又被拉近,繼續搓。看到身上涼了,便被拖下池,還不能下大眾池,因為那是剛進來的人泡的,必須得下中間的溫熱池,溫熱池對小孩來說已經燙的不行,不啻于老人們到燙池子里的感覺。我也是咬著牙一動不動的蹲著,每到有人下來的時候就借機從池子里跳出來。因為,那池水一動起來,簡直就要燙到骨頭里了。

                    最期盼的,當然是洗完湯,回到躺椅上,做很累很饑餓狀。這時,外公會問,空么?(這是肚子餓了的意思)我便會有氣無力的點點頭。因為,不遠的地方就有一個小販,頂著一個炊器,叫著:糕、糕……那是莆田人賣粳米糕的,甜甜韌韌的,很白。或者有一種糯米做的,叫甘米嫩的,也很好吃。尤其是就著茉莉花茶,咬一小口甘米嫩,還不能馬上咽下去,然后喝一口花茶,滿口生香的。這種湯池店里的頂上販現在還有。聽說有一個名叫阿二哥的人還在德天泉澡堂和工人浴室叫賣他自己手工制作的糖包和光餅夾。

                    今兒個幾個朋友來喝茶,問我過年得閑都準備干嘛。我說,泡湯池店。他們都瞪大了眼睛,這是墮落了呀。我說,我的人生觀變了。

                    為什么不呢?這泡溫泉的妙處就不多說,一百個讀者的心中自有一百個的哈姆雷特。但像福州這樣泡在溫泉里的城市,恐怕世界上也沒有幾個。其它地方去泡溫泉,還得放個假,長途驅車什么的,等泡完回來,又是一身臭汗了。哪像福州,泡完出來,頭發還沒干就已經到家了。于是我給廣州的朋友打電話,說,春節趕緊帶家人來福州,洗湯泡溫泉。

                    想想現在還有很多想不開的人,或官或商或職員的,還在那里怨怨艾艾的時候,我卻已經赤條條的泡在福人福地的溫泉里“透喀”去了,你說能不墮落嗎?想想都笑出聲來了。

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